My-Oh-Meyer Lemons

Tracing the Roots of Meyer Lemons

The Meyer lemon was brought to the US from southern China in the early 1900s by a US Department of Agriculture agricultural explorer named Frank N. Meyer, for whom the fruit is named. 

In the 20^th century, the citrus industry went through a major transformation fueled by faster transportation such as railroads and airplanes, commercial refrigeration, the discovery of vitamin C and, most importantly, the invention of juice concentrates. The Meyer lemon was left behind in this transformation, never making its debut on a national scale. Distribution was confined mostly to markets near the citrus belts of California and Florida. 

Their thin, delicate skin and high juice content makes them too fragile to distribute commercially. To complicate matters, in 1960 the majority of Meyer lemon trees in California were destroyed by the citrus virus tristeza, which threatened the entire citrus industry. Government officials ordered the eradication of Meyer lemon trees from orchards, ranches and even backyards. Fortunately, scientists at UC Riverside invented a virus-free Meyer, the “Improved Meyer,” and chefs and home cooks breathed a sigh of relief.

Becoming a Celebrity Citrus

Most people in the Bay Area trace the Meyer’s popularity directly to Alice Waters and Chez Panisse.

In the 1970s, Alice and her team found them while foraging in the backyards of Berkeley. The ethereal fragrance and sweetness of this lemon quickly made it a signature ingredient in sweet and savory menu items at her fabled restaurant. 

Championing this delicate citrus in her cuisine, most notably with her legendary Meyer Lemon Meringue Pie, Alice put Meyer lemons on everyone’s shopping wish list. And it didn’t end there: In a testament to the popularity of the Meyer lemon, the US Post Office released a two-cent Meyer lemon postage stamp in January 2018.

Making the Perfect Pick

Most lemons have a long growing season, with Eureka and Lisbon lemons ripening in the fall and winter. California-grown Meyer lemons are mostly cultivated in the southern part of the state and Tulare County. While they are often available year round in specialty stores that import them from other countries, the main harvest in California is from mid-November to early April.

Look for lemons that are fully yellow and heavy for their size, which signals plenty of juice. Softer lemons will typically have the most juice but will need to be used immediately. Avoid fruit with soft or dark spots or ones that have a hole where the stem was plucked. Most citrus fruits can hang out at room temperature away from sunlight for up to one week, or stored in the refrigerator for three to four weeks. Because the peel of the Meyer is thinner and more delicate, they should be refrigerated in a plastic bag.

Freezing for Later Squeezing

This may come as a surprise, but lemons hold their shape, color and flavor quite well when frozen. Make sure to wash the lemon with soap and water and dry well. Place whole lemons or slices in freezer bags, removing as much air as possible. When ready to use, they can be microwaved or placed in cold water for 15 minutes. You can also freeze whole lemons that have been zested by wrapping them in plastic wrap and storing them in a freezer bag.

To freeze the zest and juice of lemons, grate the zest into ice cube trays and then fill with juice. Once frozen, transfer the cubes to freezer bags. 

For the most juice, bring a lemon to room temperature. Roll it firmly against a hard surface and use a citrus reamer to extract the juice. A Microplane is best for fine, aromatic shreds of lemon rind free of pith. A vegetable peeler is useful for creating wide ribbons of lemon zest.

Sourcing and Growing These Winter Wonders 

Although most local markets source and feature the goldenrod Meyer lemon in season, the surest way to have ready access to Meyer lemons is to grow them yourself. Meyer lemon trees, readily available at most Silicon Valley nurseries, are easy to cultivate. Not only are the trees pretty, they have a wonderful fragrance. They can be grown successfully in the ground, in a pot or even indoors as long as they have six to 12 hours of sunlight a day.

To plant a Meyer in a container, you will need a five- to 15-gallon pot with proper drainage. Likewise, plant the tree in the ground where there is good drainage. Once planted, fertilize once every two to three months during active growing season and provide a water source. Meyer lemon trees are the most nutrient hungry from the time they bloom until they set fruit and should be watered regularly. If the temperature dips below freezing, cover the tree with a sheet if it is planted in the ground or bring the potted tree indoors. 

Juice, Zest and Enjoy!

You can’t go wrong with Meyer lemons, as they can be substituted for any lemon or citrus ingredient in your winter entertaining or daily dishes. The delicate juice and fragrant zest from these little gems play nicely with flavor profiles from sweetness to umami. Give your finished preparations a good squeeze and a pinch of zest at the end of the cooking process to brighten up your dish. Grab a plate—dinner is served!