How to taste terroir? Line up wines made from Lester Family Vineyards’ grapes for a comparative tasting. These seven Pinot Noirs (six from 2016 and one from 2017) come from a common terroir but each is made distinctive by the winemaker’s clone choices and unique winemaking process. One thing is clear—these wines are all siblings. Some have a big personality, others are more elegant. Still, there is a common core of complexity and texture, along with cherry fruit and white pepper spice that are hallmarks of Lester terroir.
By Mary Orlin, WSET Advanced Certified Sommelier
Big Basin
Big Basin ($55) is the most aromatic, with delicate rose petal and violet scents. Winemaker Bradley Brown crushes 100% whole clusters and that’s evident in a mild bubblegum and cherry cola character, along with savory notes of rosemary, thyme and black tea, with a red cherry core. The wine becomes more perfumey as it opens up in the glass.
Domingo
Winemaker Ed Kurtzman’s Pinot under the Lester Estate Wines, called Domingo ($55), has lovely violets, and Bing cherry aromatics with white pepper spice and tarragon herb. It’s bright and lively in the mouth, with a long savory finish.
Richard Alfaro’s Alfaro Family Vineyards Pinot
Equally aromatic and complex, Richard Alfaro’s Alfaro Family Vineyards Pinot ($45) is the only 2017 of the bunch. This balanced wine delivers vibrant red cherry, strawberry and rose petal essence along with earthy, herbal thyme and white pepper character. The wine’s plush body balanced by racy acidity makes you stand up and take notice.
Sante Arcangeli
John Benedetti’s Pinot for his own label, Sante Arcangeli ($36) has lots of bright Bing cherry fruit and white peppercorn, and a mouth-coating texture with intense flavor and a long finish.
Soquel Vineyard Pinot
The rest of the Pinots in the lineup lean toward a more fruit-forward style. The Soquel Vineyard Pinot ($44) has rich black cherry fruit and earthy notes, and a mouth-coating lushness with bright acid and white pepper.
Mercurio
Mercurio, which is made by John Benedetti, is the other Lester Estate Wines Pinot ($55). Comparing it side by side with the Ed Kurtzman’s Domingo Pinot is a great way to explore Lester terroir in the hands of two winemakers. Mercurio is earthier and savory and needs time in the glass to open up. Once it does, you’ll notice the common thread of complex aromatics and flavor and plush texture.
Thérèse Martin’s Thérèse Vineyards Pinot
Thérèse Martin’s Thérèse Vineyards Pinot ($48) explodes with crushed violets, rose petals, raspberries and black cherries. The bold wine has noticeable tannins adding to the texture, and a savory, umami finish.
Salud!
Terroir, pronounced ter-WAHR, is one of those geeky wine terms that gets thrown around in tasting rooms and woven into...
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